My bus drops me off on a remote mountain path, the lush green foliage surrounds me as I walk. Luckily, getting off at the completely wrong stop presents me with a great view of the Kintai Bridge, an expansive wooden bridge with five arches. Located in Iwakuni, Yamaguchi Prefecture, the Kintai Bridge is regarded as one of three best bridges in Japan, with its ornate timberwork dating back to 1673.

I stare at the bridge for a while and consider its unusual shape. I eventually come to the conclusion that it looks a bit like a snake. I glance down below at the tranquil blue water of the Nishiki River, before continuing on toward the entrance to Kintai Bridge. Here a woman in a ticket booth waves at me, distracted from the present situation, I wave back and begin to cross the bridge.

This renowned bridge is dreadful to walk across, its wooden steps curving up and down. The bright winter sun reflects off the polished woodwork and I have to focus on not toppling over. Kintai Bridge has been designated as a National Site of Scenic Beauty, the reason for this is hidden in its sophisticated construction. From the perspective of modern bridge engineering, the construction of the wooden arches are said to be so impeccable, despite their age. I think these modern engineers should try walking across the bridge in the blazing sunshine and then decide how sophisticated it is.

When I reach the other side of this 210 metre long bridge and see another ticket office, I realise the woman that waved at me was signalling for me to buy a ticket to cross the bridge. I apologise at this side and retroactively pay the ¥310 crossing fee. Slightly embarrassed, I continue on, and enter a nice looking park.

Kikko Park is a very charming leafy landscaped park. The area contains a few tasteful clothing stores, small coffee shops, and nice little restaurants. All of this is set to the backdrop of a mountain, a shrine with some nice bridges, and a few small canals. Atop the mountain, I can just make out the miniature outline of what looks to be a castle. There’s also a snake museum here.

After having my temperature checked and my hands sanitised, I enter the Iwakuni White Snake Museum. Here can be found everything there is to know about this special type of snake; a breakdown of its anatomy, snake skeletons, and real samples of its shed skin are on display here. There are even live snakes that I initially mistook to be made from plastic, it wasn’t until one of these enchanting snakes began to hiss and move its tongue that I realised it was real.

This albino mutation of the Japanese rat snake is glossy white with red eyes, and has been designated as a National Treasure by the Japanese government. It is said that stories about incidents involving these white snakes have been passed down through the ages. The interesting thing about the Iwakuni white snake is that it has a mild temperament, and does not harm human beings. I stare at the snake, regard its shape. I consider that it looks a bit like the bridge I crossed earlier.

Leaving the museum, I decide to check out the castle. It’s quite high up the mountain but luckily there is a ropeway that runs every fifteen minutes. I’ve never been on a ropeway before, but having previously conquered my fear of heights, I’m prepared to give it a go. A few moments later, I arrive at the Iwakuni Castle Ropeway Mountain Foot Station.

I buy a return ticket for ¥540 then instantly regret my decision once I see the ropeway; it doesn’t look safe at all. As I wait to ride, I become anxious when I watch the man who performs the safety checks simply put his head into our carriage, take a swift look around for less than a second, before telling us we are okay to enter. The ropeway fights its way up 200 metres of cable as it climbs to the top. There is a clock here, the Shiroyama Mechanical Clock, it plays a lively melody as the cable car pulls into the station; I recognise the tune but can’t quite place it.

The view from the top is stunning. I stand here for about ten minutes, enjoying the warm weather and admiring the wonderful view. The wind periodically pushes with gentle nonchalance; the occasional hovering of a zephyr adding a cooling breeze to an afternoon encased beneath the vibrant sky. In the distance, I can see the Seto Inland Sea and even the islands of Shikoku beyond.

A sign says the castle is an eight minute walk away. The area is awash with vibrant colours, the maple and ginkgo leaves turning various shades of red and yellow. I pass a rather disconcerting sign telling me to, “Beware of pit viper!” — so much for the friendly snakes. I continue on, passing the largest dry moat in Japan, before after a steady twenty minute hike, I arrive at the castle.

The castle is extremely crowded with elderly Japanese people travelling with their tour groups. This particular castle is know as ‘Yamajiro’ which is a word to describe any castle built on a mountain and at least 150 metres high. I once again admire the view from this mountain castle, before turning around and heading back to the ropeway.

As I make my way back down the mountain, the forest whispers to me with the snapping of twigs beneath my feet. The sound captures my attention, and for the first time I truly take in the vast expanse of the forest surrounding Iwakuni Castle. I also realise, with a start, that there is no protective fence separating me from the dizzying drop to the valley below.

Back at the ropeway entrance, I arrive a little early. Eventually, the Japanese tour group begins to arrive in droves, and before long, a line of over thirty people snakes behind me. As we are set to depart, we manage to squeeze in twenty three of us into the tiny cable car; social distancing out of the window completely. As we slowly begin to descend the mountain, the weight of us makes the ropeway creak, squeak, and screech as we swing unnaturally from side to side.

The cable car crashes into an overgrown tree branch on the way down, the sound and shaking startles me, and much like a snake, I jump out of my skin.