Tag Archives: volcano

The Lost Samurai

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Many days fell away with nothing to show. Today, the first thing I notice as I step out of Kagoshima Station is the giant volcano that appears to be erupting in the distance. Kagoshima Prefecture is famous for Sakurajima, the most active volcano in Japan. It lurks ominously in the distance, alone, on its island surrounded by the water of Kagoshima Bay.

Sakurajima literally translates to mean Cherry Blossom Island, but don’t let the nice name fool you, this volcano is monstrous in size; standing at a colossal 1,117 metres above sea level, it can be seen from everywhere. Wherever I go in Kagoshima, the volcano seems to follow.

Today the Volcano Alert System is at level three. I am told to refrain from entering the danger zone and to pay attention to the future volcanic activity. The Volcano Alert System has five levels, they are:

5: Evacuate.
4: Evacuation of the elderly, et cætera.
3: Do not approach.
2: Do not approach the crater.
1: Caution advised around the crater.

I decide to try to get a better view, so head towards the Shiroyama Park Observation Deck. As I wander, I feel the streets here are much wider than I’m used to, the roads twice the size as usual. Tram lines criss and cross through the city streets whilst foghorns blast intermittently in the distance.

Before reaching the observation deck, I see a huge stone torii gate in the middle of one of the many large roads. I check my map to find it is simply named Big Torii. I’ve never seen such a gate before, usually torii gates are for people, it’s unusual to see traffic passing beneath.

After walking under Big Torii, I start to climb up some steep stone steps that spiral and meander, before finding myself 107-metres higher, at the top of Castle Mountain. In the distance, grey clouds roll over the hills bringing darkness from above, and I realise that I have selected the worse possible day to photograph the volcano.

I traipse back down the stone steps and into Central Park. The park isn’t that large, but somehow I can’t seem to find the statue that I’m here to see. I do another lap of the park, look for English signs, walk the park a third time only to realise that the statue isn’t even in Central Park.

Eventually, I find the bronze statue of Saigo Takamori, betterwise known as The Last Samurai, and inspiration for the film of the same name. Saigo Takamori led the army of the Satsuma Rebellion against the Meiji government, and is one of the most influential samurai in Japanese history. The statue here is 8-metres high and took eight years to craft. There’s also a rather small statue of Hachiko the dog here, for no reason that I can ascertain.

Still desperate for a better view and a decent photograph of Sakurajima, I head on down to the Amami Okinawa Ferry Terminal, the source of the foghorns I heard earlier. I find a nearby hotel with a balcony that faces out toward the volcano. The hotel room is a little pricey, but it does offer a pour-it-yourself beer server in the lobby, and it’s totally free.

The view from my balcony is slightly spoilt by a net, but good enough.

After helping myself to some lovely free beer, I end the day by walking around Kagoshima; the ubiquitous Sakurajima volcano continues to prowl in every direction, its omnipresence ever threatening, until the darkness of the night engulfs its existence.

Fuji in the Sky with Diamonds

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Today marks an event that occurs only twice a year. In just five minutes, the sun will set behind the peak of Japan’s most well-known volcano, Mount Fuji, creating a phenomenon known as ‘Diamond Fuji.’ This rare event happens when the sun aligns perfectly with the summit of Mount Fuji during both sunrise and sunset. I’m not quite sure what to expect, other than the enchanting sight of diamonds.

I eagerly wait amongst the crowds of people gathered at the windows along the full length of the south side of the building. As the sun quietly begins its descent, a collective sense of disappointment fills the air.

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Today has been relatively clear in terms of the sky, but the air above Mount Fuji is filled with clouds, making it challenging to discern even the slightest outline of the mountain. No diamonds today, just a rather attractive sunset hanging above the miniature buildings that compose the endless Tokyo skyline. I can’t complain, though; I am witnessing a fantastic sunset. The sky looks amazing as it becomes illuminated by the setting sun.

I wait around for a while amongst other photographers and Japanese people making peace signs for their ‘sunset selfies.’ In one hour, the sky will be dark, so to make the most of my ¥620 ticket, I decide to linger. The observatory provides a fantastic vantage point for observing Tokyo, offering romantic and exotically beautiful views. The building remains open for night viewing, and my plan now is to spend some time at 251 metres, hoping to capture a few shots of Tokyo illuminated at night.

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The night sets in, and I snap a few photographs before taking a leisurely stroll around the observatory. A vending machine catches my eye, offering an inexpensive blueberry cheesecake cone that I can’t resist. Nearby, a small cafe named ‘Air Ship’ sells food that, frankly, looks terrible. There’s also a small art gallery, a gift shop, and a place where professional artists draw caricatures—typical money-spinning attractions. Oddly, there are several small heart rate monitoring machines here, each costing ¥100. The idea of coming all this way just to check one’s heart rate seems beyond me.

After my exploration, I head back down the oddly named ‘Shining Elevator.’ As the lift descends at six hundred metres a minute, I can’t help but half-expect Jack Nicholson to burst through the door at any moment. However, the elevator surprises me by transforming into a planetarium, showcasing a light show that could be stars or underwater sparkles. The visuals are accompanied by relaxing space and ocean music.

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At the bottom of the lift, a photograph mockingly displays the spectacle we all came here to view. Regrettably, what I witnessed was far from the captivating display promised by the poster – just another sunset.

Drinking Bananas, Las Vegas, Going to Hell, Bananas, Drinking

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Outside it is 32°C with 0% precipitation. The weather here goes from one extreme to another. The morning fog is long gone. I take a bike to the supermarket to buy a late breakfast. I buy egg sandwiches, yoghurt, a fruit drink made from real bananas, and some grapes. A normal size plastic container of grapes costs ¥1298. I opt for a small box costing me ¥198. it contains 11 grapes.

After breakfast I cycle along the coastline. I see a bright red building called, ‘Las Vegas’, so I decide to check it out. I discover why everywhere in Beppu is deserted. Everyone is here at Las Vegas, the place is packed. The noise of metal balls and the stench of cigarette smoke pours out of the door. Las Vegas is a nine story pachinko parlour. Pachinko is a recreational arcade game where players pay for balls, then fire them through a vertical pinball machine with no flippers. The balls bounce off pins and have a chance of activating in-game prizes that produce more balls.

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Gambling in Japan is illegal; although there are controversial plans to legalise it ready for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics. At a pachinko parlour, players can ‘cash in’ their balls for novelty prizes. These prizes can then be taken off the premises and to a nearby ‘exchange centre’, where they are sold to the buyer for cash. The exchange centre then sells the prizes back to the pachinko parlour. This is a loophole in the law that the police know about but turn a blind eye to. Very strange. Beppu has more pachinko machines than people.

Leaving Las Vegas I see a sign for Kannawa, the area where six of the eight Hell themed hot springs are. Having only visited Crocodile Hell, I decide to take the thirty minute uphill bicycle ride, instantly regretting it the moment my foot hits the pedal. At Kannawa I find a sign that says, “Put your good memories of Kannawa into a haiku. The selection is held four times a year; on each season, spring, summer, autumn and winter. A stone monument will be erected for the very best haiku of the year.” I scribble down a haiku and place it into the box:

Steam, one with the clouds,
my mind, drifts like the stream,
into the ocean.

I head to Kamado Jigoku, or Oven Hell. I pay my ¥400 entry fee. Inside, there is a statue of a great red demon standing on an enormous cooking pot. A long time ago they would cook using the 100°C steam. This is what the statue represents.

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Also at Oven Hell there are many different stoves heating very old metal kettles. There is also a pond that, “Changes colour a couple of times a year.” There are loads of pools of bubbling mud. If you blow something that burns and smokes into the mud, it causes the amount of steam to intensify. This is demonstrated by a staff member with an unnecessary megaphone and a cigarette. After touring the many pools I am given the opportunity to eat an egg boiled in the steam of Oven Hell.

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After Oven Hell I head for Umi Jigoku, Sea Hell. An explosion from a volcano 1,200 years ago created a pond of boiling water. For some unexplained reason, the pond is cobalt blue. This place shouldn’t really be described as a Hell. The area is full of natural beauty. There are no gimmicks here. No eggs here. No crocodiles. Just wildlife and scenery.

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Sea Hell is massive. In random ponds float tropical water lilies, bananas grow inside a building labelled, “Hell emitting gas use greenhouse,” and random waterfalls and hot springs are surrounded by nature. Inside the gift shop the air conditioning is so cold. I stay here pretending to look at tacky souvenirs, while I secretly cool off from the heat of a hot summer’s day.

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I decide to save the other five Hells for a rainy day. I quite enjoyed cycling here, but I enjoy the downhill cycling a lot more. On the way back to the hostel I see a sign for Beppu City Traditional Bamboo Crafts Centre. I take what I think is the correct road, but somehow end up at a baseball stadium. There are people outside hitting drums, and baseball players in full kit chanting. A very interesting warm up exercise indeed. I don’t find the museum.

Back at the hostel, Yojiro is on reception, meaning the music is good. ‘Round Here’ by Counting Crows blasts from the stereo. I work out that I have cycled 23.2 kilometres today. After a few hours relaxing and talking to other guests at the hostel, I head out to do my laundry. While I wait I buy a can of Suntory whisky highball from Seven Eleven. The staff member asks me to put my hand in a box and pull out a token. I have no idea why. I speculate that it’s because I used exact change for once. My ticket doesn’t win me anything.

I switch my laundry from washer to dryer then walk around the middle of Beppu; on the way I count four random cats. The cats here look healthy and lurk around the backstreets of Beppu at night. The lampposts are once again playing the Beatles, ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’. Back at the launderette, someone has taken out my dry laundry and folded it neatly and placed it into a basket. Thanks!

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I head back out to an international bar called where the owner was the person that recommended the festival in Oita a few days ago. I chat to random people, mostly students from the nearby Asia Pacific University. They are Japanese but speak very good English. It’s actually a pretty nice bar, although quite small; and it does get a little smoky after a while. In Japan it is still okay to smoke in buildings, much to my displeasure. At some point in the night Yojiro randomly shows up at the bar and buys me a drink. Thanks Yojiro!

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The night washes over me and eventually it is time to go. I leave the bar at around 3 a.m. In the distance Beppu Tower is illuminated with signs advertising Asahi. More beer is the last thing I need right now. Back at the hostel a Spanish guy is preparing to watch Brazil thrash Germany in the World Cup. I consider staying to watch the match, but instead I choose sleep.