Tag Archives: pain

The Tooth Without Enamel

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Today marks the final day in Japan to admire the autumn leaves. Abscission has commenced, and the leaves are poised to fall. It’s as if some secret internal clock, powered by nature, instructs the trees that today is the day to part ways with their foliage. Cascading like clockwork, fading like time. Today, the leaves will begin their descent, and there is no changing that fact. The Japanese people inform me that it starts today. The trees, too, are aware that it starts today. The ground outside is a wash of greens, yellows, and reds. A reflecting traffic light on a rain-swept road would complement the scene perfectly. Today is clear with sunshine, dry but with a light breeze. No rain, no reflections. I step outside for one last time to relish in the autumn colours. Tomorrow, there will be nothing left.

autumntrees[1]

Despite my obvious fascination with the tranquil joy of autumn colours, I am distracted—still suffering silently from a toothache. The dentist doesn’t open until half-past two, and with an afternoon lunch planned, I decide on a 4 p.m. appointment. I take the train to Harajuku. Today, two very different festivals are taking place in the space outside Yoyogi Park. The first is a vegan food festival, and the second is a Spanish food festival.

I exit the train at Harajuku Station. On the other side of the ticket barrier, a young Japanese man with a microphone awaits. Like an animal waiting to catch its prey, he stands silently until I draw near. Suddenly, he rushes into my path, stopping me in my tracks and interrupting my thoughts of dental disquiet. “Excuse me, can you speak English?” he asks, holding the microphone rather intrusively beneath my chin before pushing it toward my mouth, seeking a reply. I hesitate for a moment, unprepared for his question.
“No, sorry,” I tell him.
“Oh,” he says, looking at me with a mix of confusion and wry disappointment. “Okay, sorry then.” With that, he scans his Suica card on the ticket machine and heads through the barrier in the direction of the platform; his outline lost in seconds as he is swallowed up by the reckless crowds.

I arrive at Yoyogi Park to find the Spanish festival in full swing: various food stalls, eleven of which are selling paella, traditional Spanish clothing, and flamenco dancers performing on the large stage. The dancers appear to be genuinely enjoying themselves, their souls lost to the rhythm of the music.

espana[1]

I didn’t come all this way to be harassed by men with microphones or to listen to Spanish music, though. Today, my purpose is the vegan festival. As I wander from Spain, I inadvertently end up in Germany. Somewhere between the two food markets, car manufacturer BMW has a stage showcasing their newest electric car, the BMW i8. I can’t quite see what this has to do with the Spanish festival or a diet free from animal products. The BMW stage looks incredibly out of place; it is mostly ignored by the many people clearly here to eat food.

At the vegan food festival, there is a lot less hot food than I expected. Most of the stalls are selling organic and Fair Trade products—coffees, chocolates, teas, sugars, and various types of bread. There are only about ten hot food stalls, but almost all of the food has already sold out. I am spoiled for choice between a shop selling Indian curry and another selling vegan burgers.

¥500 later, and I’m sitting on a park bench, eating a burger, surrounded by fallen leaves that probably taste better than my food. If not for the sauce that adds at least a hint of flavour, I would likely discard the burger and rush back to Spain for some lukewarm paella instead. As I leave the festival, I notice that the people browsing the vegan stalls seem less happy than those over at the Spanish festival.

vegefestival[1]

Literally full of beans, I head back to Asakusa and to the dentist. I’ve chosen to visit a much smaller surgery than the one I had been to previously—an English-speaking dentist I met in a bar, and I’ve kept her business card for a day like today. At the dentist, I endure four separate x-rays before a quick fix is done on my tooth. I make an appointment to return in two weeks’ time. It looks like my tooth will face the same fate as the autumn leaves—an abscission of sorts. After an hour at the dentist, I pay ¥9720 and receive another packet of little yellow pills. I am told that if I apply for a Japanese insurance card, I can reclaim two-thirds of the cost of this treatment and all subsequent treatments—a welcome bonus and information they didn’t really have to disclose.

Tooth sorted, I head over to Cafe Byron Bay to play at an open mic night—my second time today before a microphone. At some point during the evening, I receive a phone call from my dentist. She is calling to check how my tooth is doing. I am surprised she made the effort to see how I am—an excellent example of customer service in Japan. Despite knowing that in two weeks, I’ll have my tooth severed without anæsthesia, her compassion somehow relaxes me. I forget about my fate and enjoy the rest of the evening, virtually pain-free.

Rock, Shock and Tooth Aching Perils

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Today is D-Day. Dentist Day. I wake up at 5 a.m. with pain in the whole left side of my mouth, all my teeth are throbbing with pain. It is excruciating. It is deafening. I wait until 10 a.m., before my Japanese speaking friend books me an appointment with a nearby dentist. I eat something out of necessity, scrambled eggs; before heading back to the hostel to play the waiting game.

At around half twelve, the pain feels like an earthquake. The building begins to shake. It isn’t pain, though; a magnitude 5.6 earthquake has struck Ibaraki, some 100 kilometres northeast of Asakusa. After one minute, the shaking stops. I head into the hostel lounge, and everyone is just carrying on as normal, as if nothing has happened. How strange.

I kill time reading about earthquakes before the time arrives to visit the dentist. I must admit, I am a little nervous. My friend is here though, so I have nothing to worry about as far as speaking Japanese is concerned. We head to the nearby Rox building; a massive commercial shopping complex containing many different shops, a gymnasium, a public bath, and oddly, a dental clinic.

rox[1]

We head up to the fifth floor to the clinic and fill out all the necessary paperwork at the reception. How often do I brush my teeth? How long have I been in pain? The usual questions. My name is eventually called at five to three, and I head into the surgery. Rather than separate rooms, the dentists work in an open space divided by booths separated by curtains. As I walk to my booth, the other dentists greet me with a cheery “Hello.” The atmosphere is somewhat comforting.

My booth is immaculately clean, shiny, and very white. I take a seat in the dentist chair, which has a television screen showing news footage of the earlier earthquake. A cloth is placed over my eyes while my teeth are carefully examined one by one. Next, I am asked to go for an X-ray. The dentist says that I am the tallest person to ever use the X-ray machine; it is clearly not designed for somebody of my height. I actually have to squat slightly to use it. As the X-ray machine scans my teeth, ‘Für Elise’ by Beethoven plays.

A tablet screen is placed in front of me showing the X-ray results. The dentist goes off somewhere, so I decide to count my teeth while I wait: an even thirty-two.

dentist[1]

When the dentist returns, he examines my X-ray before putting a camera in my mouth to take photographs of the suspect area. The problem lies in my upper left third molar—a cavity. The news is replaced with the photograph he has just taken. The dentist is surprised by the state of my teeth; he says it is very rare to see such ‘Virgin teeth,’ as he puts it. My teeth are immaculate and untouched; I have never had any type of dental surgery before—no fillings, no tooth removals, and no severed nerves. He says that usually in Japan, a problem like the one I have would be solved by killing the nerve so the pain stops permanently. But because I have all of my nerves intact, he gives me the option to have the cavity cleaned, which he assures me has an 85% chance of success. If it doesn’t solve the problem, then I can always come back again and have my nerve severed.

I agree to the treatment. He places a numbing agent in the affected area before administering a local anæsthetic. Three seconds after the injection, I say to my friend, “I don’t feel so good.” Actually, my entire body begins to tingle and turn numb. I go into anaphylactic shock. My body starts to shake. Eyes open, mind elsewhere. My gaze remains fixed, staring off into some distant abyss.

Darkness envelops me, spiriting me away to a realm beyond comprehension. I traverse a dimension so profound, a depth within my own mind or an alternate world more tangible than our reality. Here, an overwhelming sensation engulfs me, a nameless horror that devours my very essence. Describing the depth of my emotions during this time eludes words; I exist, yet not as myself; and the memory evaporates the instant I return.

I blink, gripped by fear. As my eyes reopen, two figures shrouded in blue masks materialise before me—one male, one female. A woman, unfamiliar and indistinct, clasps my hand, murmuring words I cannot grasp. Panic seizes me. I’m adrift in an abyss of unknowing, unaware of my surroundings or even my own identity. Desperation claws at me; tears threaten to spill. Never before have I felt such terror. Who are these strangers? A momentary void swallows my memory. Was I just born anew? Did I perish? I attempt speech, but words elude me. Tremors wrack my body, not violently, but quivering with sheer nervousness and dread. Slowly, like a fog lifting, memories trickle back, accompanied by my friend’s urgent directive to “Breathe deeply.” Gradually, I emerge from the haze, shaken, tearful, and engulfed by sheer panic.

Eventually, things calm down. My friend explains what happened—about my vacant stare and trembling. My knee hurts; I must have bumped it against the machine. The dentist, with my friend translating, clarifies that I received only a half dose of local anæsthetic. I had previously told my friend that I hadn’t taken any medication for over ten years, a detail I fortunately mentioned to her. She relayed this information to the dentist before the injection; had she not, the full dosage of anæsthesia could have been lethal. She might have just saved my life. I could have remained in that other place forever; eyes open, mind elsewhere.

The dentist reassures me that I will be okay, all smiles and jokes now. I relax but can’t shake images from my head. This moment will be etched in my memory forever. The procedure is eventually finished, the cavity cleaned, and I am free to go and pay. The whole treatment and two packets of painkillers cost me a total of ¥7890. Drowsy, with my knee hurting and my mind drifting, I head back to the hostel to sleep.

Parasite at the Museum

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Today is a public holiday dedicated to respecting the elderly and celebrating longevity. In Japan, there are fifteen different public holidays annually, and due to the implementation of the ‘Happy Monday System,’ several holidays have been shifted to Mondays to grant people a three-day weekend. Unfortunately, my toothache has plunged me into perpetual agony today. Regrettably, all the dentists are on holiday because of the celebration honouring the elderly. Not wishing to bare one’s teeth, I struggle on in pain.

My first stop today is Shibuya Station. With most of the country off work today, the area is overcrowded and annoying. I grab a bottle of drink that claims to contain one thousand lemons (which I very much doubt) before walking in the sunshine toward Harajuku, in search of some illustrious graffiti. On the way, I pass Yoyogi Park; here, there are swarms of teenage girls all standing around waiting for some sort of summer concert to start. I decide to pass on the concert. In Harajuku, it is just as crowded. I wander around side streets but find the graffiti to be somewhat lacklustre. I take just one photograph before walking back to Harajuku Station.

haragraf[1]

I take the Yamanote Line to Meguro, which translates to mean ‘black eyes’. After eventually finding a map, I discover that my destination isn’t marked. So, I search for a Seven Eleven and use their free wireless Internet. I then head to the Meguro Parasitological Museum; the only parasite museum in the world, I might add. I am surprised to find it open on a public holiday, and I am even more surprised to find that the entry is free.

If you are looking for a cheap destination for a romantic afternoon, then the Meguro Parasitological Museum is for you. Here, there are jars of parasites, magnifying glasses for that closer look, and an interactive screen displaying the life cycle of a parasite. There is even a small souvenir shop selling shirts depicting parasitological dissections. Finally, a gift shop selling something worth buying.

parasites[1]

With my appetite faded, I leave the museum and decide to skip lunch. I take the Meguro Line six stops to Ookayama Station. Each time the train starts up, it sounds like a jet engine. I change at Ookayama to the Tokyu Oimachi Line; this train also sounds like it is about to take off as it leaves the station. Eventually, I land in Jiyugaoka.

Jiyugaoka is often voted as one of the best places to live in Tokyo. The streets here are a cluster of expensive clothes shops and shops selling expensive cakes and sweets. Some stores have signs outside that say, ‘Women only.’ The roads here are even pedestrianised during the daytime, providing extra space for the many crowds. My intrigue takes me to a place called ‘Sweets Forest.’

sweetsforest[1]

Sweets Forest is an indoor theme park filled with cake shops and overpriced candies. For no apparent reason, traditional Irish folk music is playing inside. However, the thought of eating sweets brings more pain to my teeth, so I decide it’s time to leave. I take the Tokyu Toyoko Line to Shibuya, transferring to the Ginza Line before heading home.

Back at the hostel, everything is getting on my nerves. People keep asking each other the same questions, speaking in languages that could be English, but I can’t be sure. There’s too much noise, and I can’t seem to focus my mind. I try to write, but the pain in my teeth and jaw keeps distracting me. Tomorrow, I’m faced with the daunting task of visiting a Japanese dentist. A friend jokes about how dentists here continue to administer pain even if you scream and raise your hand to signal them to stop, or how instead of fixing your problem, they just remove your teeth.

With my appetence faded and my mind consumed by pain, I try to get an early night. I head off to bed at 9 p.m.; although sleep, I expect, will be somewhat limited. Not a very happy Monday at all.