Cabbage Over Untroubled Water

Posted on 16/01/2023 by Luke

With just two wards of Tokyo left to write about, today is the day I will complete my tour of this great city. I start my day in Nerima, the birthplace of animation. Located in western Tokyo, Nerima is known for its residential atmosphere. Outside of its connection to animation, there isn’t much else to see here.

As I make my way through the streets, the presence of the anime and manga industry is strong. The ward is home to many studios and other companies involved in the production of these popular forms of entertainment. My first stop is the Oizumi Anime Gate, where I am greeted by a number of bronze statues of beloved anime characters.

As someone who is not a fan of Japanese anime, I only recognise one of the statues, probably because there once was a statue of the same character outside my old house in Taito Ward, that of Yabuki Joe, the main protagonist of the anime “Ashita no Joe.” This character is one of five depicted in statue form at this location, revered for their role in bringing Japanese anime to the world stage.

As I continue my wanderings through Nerima, I pass by a sign that reads “No more war! Stop Putin!” Eventually, I come across a map and see a sign pointing to a Cabbage Monument. Intrigued, and with little else planned for Nerima, I decide to go and check it out.

Hidden alongside the tranquil waters of the Shakujii River stands a monument of concrete adorned with an aluminium alloy sculpture of a cabbage. Erected in 1998 by the hardworking farmers of Nerima as a tribute to their resilient cabbage crops. An inscription on the monolith tells the inspiring tale of how these farmers triumphantly overcame pests and other obstacles as they transitioned from cultivating radishes to cultivating cabbage. Twice a year, these cabbages, known for their sweet and crunchy goodness, are harvested and proudly grown in Nerima to this day.

As I head towards the train station, I am struck by the delicate beauty of Shakujii Pond. This massive body of water is so still, it almost resembles a swamp. The surface of the water is completely calm and placid, not a ripple to be seen. It’s a strange, ghostly scene, made all the more surreal by the row of pagodas shaped like swans that line the pond.

With my tour of Nerima complete, it’s time to visit the final ward of Tokyo: Suginami. As I’m riding the train, my friend Marc messages me and asks what I’m doing that evening. I tell him I’m planning to visit Koenji, and he excitedly tells me that it’s his favourite place in Tokyo. He agrees to join me, and we meet halfway and get chatting on the train, accidentally missing our stop. So instead, we get off at Kichijoji, a neighbourhood that is consistently voted as the most desirable place to live in Tokyo.

As we stand at Kichijoji Station, we decide that it would be a shame not to take a quick look around the area. Marc tells me that everyone in Kichijoji exudes the scent of capitalism. We wander from the station towards Harmonica Alley, a shopping district named after its harmonica-shaped pedestrian walkway.

This crisscross of alleyways is home to a number of small independent restaurants and bars, and as we wind our way through the cramped streets, I really enjoy the experience. Although not all of the shops are open, I get a good sense of the area – the small stalls selling food, the bright red lanterns, and the narrow streets all contribute to a Blade Runner-esque vibe. We explore the labyrinth of old-fashioned stores and soak up the atmosphere.

After immersing ourselves in the sounds and music of Harmonica Alley, we head back to the station and finally make our way to Koenji, a district known for its vibrant, youthful atmosphere.

Marc takes me on a tour of the area, passing through the main shopping arcade. Despite it being early evening, I’m surprised to find many of the vintage clothing shops to be open. We pass by retro sweet shops, retro toy shops, and shops selling life posters from the 1950s. On the other side of the station, the nightlife scene in Koenji is lively, with many clubs and live music venues that attract young people from all over the city.

We don’t do much else of note here though, aside from trying out a few bars. As the night wears on, we move on from the trendy bars to an izakaya-style Japanese pub. We stay a while chatting, drinking Suntory whisky highballs while snacking on raw octopus, skewered meat, deep-fried tofu, and crisp, sweet cabbage from Nerima. The warm atmosphere and lively conversation make time seem to fly, and before we know it, the last train home looms near. With a sense of reluctance, we make our way back to the station, passing by out-of-season Christmas trees on the way.

As the train carries me home, a friend asks me what I’m doing on Wednesday and if I’d like to join her on a 42 kilometre walk around Tokyo. Fresh from my goal of completing the city, I am tempted by the idea of revisiting Tokyo’s streets in a different way. I agree to join her, ready to explore the city once more, entirely on foot.

Fins Can Only Get Batter

Posted on 31/12/2014 by Luke

Today, Christine and I head over to Tsukiji to visit a fish market. Outside the train station, the outer market is crowded with mostly tourists. It is fair to say that along the small streets lining the market, we are literally packed like sardines. Many small food stores sell fish caught fresh this morning, and the smell of fish is pleasant and anything but overpowering. The freshness of the food here can really be noted.

Buckets of huge tuna sit soaked in blood and ice. Live crabs try to escape their fate by crawling from weighing scales, and the hustle and bustle of the market is present at every turn.

We wander the outer market and into what looks like a giant warehouse. This is the wholesale section of the market, and the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world. People carrying huge white polystyrene boxes of frozen fish cruise past on electric bikes. Tuna that costs more than a house is on sale and on display. People are rushing. Market traders are yelling. It is all a bit overwhelming.

We wander the entire length of the wholesale market, which takes about twenty minutes at a hurried pace. At the other side of the market, we wander into a shrine to receive our fortune in the form of a sacred lot. One of the traditional cultures in Japan that you can experience at Japanese shrines and temples. We both pay ¥200 and both receive a ‘Very lucky’ fortune. We wonder if they are all the same.

After Tsukiji, we take the train over to Tokyo Big Sight. Outside Tokyo International Exhibition Centre, there are about one thousand people in cosplay, dressed as their favourite comic book characters.

Men dressed as women pose for photographs for a queue of excited otaku. A guy in a schoolgirl outfit follows us as we enter the main building. Today is Winter Comiket, a comic market event with a focus on independent manga artists. Ninety percent of the people here are men wearing glasses and conform seamlessly to the stereotype of a comic book fan.

Entry is free. Inside the West Halls, there are rows upon rows of small stands, each selling individual comic books. There is no stage. No other entertainment. Only comic books. I can understand the appeal to those who read manga, but for me, the event gives me very little satisfaction. In fact, Christine and I agree that it is all a little too much. The crowds are insane, and oddly, most of the comic books seem to feature covers that can only be described as pornography.

After ten minutes of wandering along endless rows of comics, we decide to leave. On the way out, we bump into Jeff. He is standing around playing with his ‘selfie stick’ with a disappointed look on his face. He only bought the stick today, but already, it has broken; perhaps through overuse, perhaps it was cheaply made.

We leave Tokyo Big Sight and walk across the Dream Bridge and the Teleport Bridge before arriving at Decks, Odaiba. We grab some cheap food at Yoshinoya, one of my favourite chain restaurants because it sells grilled eel with a bottle of beer at an extremely low price. After food, Jeff heads off, and Christine and I explore the area.

We are handed a flyer for the Tokyo Trick Art Museum. It looks interesting enough and is only ¥900, so we decide to take a look.

The flyer says, ‘Do you want to play with Japanese ghosts and monsters? You can take funny photos. Don’t be scared. It is fun.’ The queue is mostly populated by families with children. Perhaps this isn’t for adults at all. Trapped in the queueing system, there is no going back, and eventually, we’re inside and being given a guided group tour of the museum, in Japanese.

We wander through the Edo area and the ninja house. At one point, we have to find a secret door; perhaps the most interesting thing in the museum. We take photographs in various positions, but they all turn out looking poor. We solve optical illusions, look at drawings from different angles, and get eaten by a whale. The best illusion is one of a vampire with a wine glass.

After the Tokyo Trick Art Museum, we head back to Asakusa, to Cafe Byron Bay, to drink wine. We opt for a relatively early night, tired from five days of constant walking around and sightseeing. Tomorrow, an eagerly anticipated trip to Tokyo Disneyland awaits.

Eye Patches and Boxing Matches

Posted on 27/10/2014 by Luke

Today, I woke up to find that my apartment is shaking. Not due to an earthquake, but because of music. The A-Round festival is still ongoing, and the indoor shopping arcade near my house is hosting a live performance by ‘Ego-Wrappin”, a renowned Japanese jazz band. I suppose I better go and take a look.

Today, the arcade is free from the usual sleeping homeless individuals; they have all been replaced by small market stalls selling drinks and snacks. A stage has been erected at one end of the street, and a live band is performing. This market is usually dead, but today it has been transformed by music.

Ego-Wrappin’ originated in Osaka, and interestingly, one of the members grew up in this area. The band currently performing live on stage might be Ego-Wrappin’, but I can’t be entirely sure. Strangely, most of the members are wearing eye patches.

Some people in the crowd are wearing fancy dress costumes; Mario and Luigi are here, hanging out with some witches. A staff member comes over to me to practice his English. When I ask him the name of the band performing, he has no idea. “I’m just a staff member,” he explains. Meanwhile, three men are performing live graffiti on one of the shutter doors, and the sweet smell of toxic paint fumes fills the arcade.

Deciding to take a stroll through the market, I randomly bump into Gomez from yesterday. He is sitting and enjoying some of the cheap food from one of the small stalls, so I join him. I ask him about the area, and he tells me that horses used to walk the main street. He also mentions a very famous horse meat restaurant not far from here. A Japanese man sitting at the same table joins in our conversation about the local sights. He starts talking about the nearby red-light district, saying, “They take major credit cards; you should go.” He confides, “I want to go, but I’m an elementary school teacher, so if people find out, then my career will be over.”

The teacher eventually leaves, and Gomez goes on to explain that this shopping arcade is based on a famous character from a Japanese manga series, ‘Ashita no Joe’. One of the other main characters is an alcoholic ex-boxer called Danpei Tange. In the manga, his character wears an eye patch; at least this explains why the band is wearing them. In the story, this area is known as the slums of Tokyo; brilliant, I find out that I live in the slums. A statue of the main character, Joe, stands guard at the entrance to the arcade.

I stay and watch the music for a while; it isn’t too bad, but it really isn’t my style either. Besides, I have things to do in Shibuya. So, I decide to leave the festival and head to the train station.

In Shibuya, I head over to the housing office to pay my rent for next month. As I leave, a well-dressed young man stops me and says he wants to ask me a few questions. “Do you live in Tokyo?” he inquires. “We are looking for people for a fashion shoot, and I think you would be perfect,” he explains.
“Me?!” I respond, quite surprised. I provide him with my details: waist size, shoe size, height, and contact information before letting him take my photograph a few times.
“I will be in touch,” he tells me. I thank him, still confused, and head back to the station.

At the station, more live music is happening, and once again, the music is jazz.

Today is the Shibuya Art Festival, and there are many different events taking place throughout the day. I decide to have a little walk around Shibuya, hoping to spot some of the other artistic events happening in the area. After wandering for about twenty minutes, the only thing I see is an anti-nuclear protest march. I decide to call it a day and head back to Minowa.

On the train ride home, I sit and daydream about becoming a fashion model.

Tokyo Game Show 2014

Posted on 22/09/2014 by Luke

Today I grab my friend Dagmar and we head three trains to Chiba, to Kaihin-Makuhari Station. The station is full of posters advertising Tokyo Game Show. Outside the station, Rockstar Games are handing out flyers advertising Grand Theft Auto V, despite not even having a stand at this year’s event. I notice the flyer only mentions the PlayStation 4 release; any mention of the Xbox One (which first launched here two weeks ago to spectacular failure) is quietly left out.

We walk ten minutes to the Makuhari Messe Convention Centre, pay the ¥1200 entry fee, and enter the event.

The Tokyo Game Show is an annual video game convention featuring over four hundred exhibitions this year. Over the past few years, the event has expanded to become one of the world’s biggest video game shows, with an expected attendance of over 300,000 people this weekend. It’s truly massive.

As much as I love video games, I’ve never been to a convention of this magnitude, and I’m not entirely sure what to expect. Inside, it’s a bustling sea of people—some sporting video game-themed shirts, others taking photographs of things that don’t particularly interest me, and many pushing and shoving through the crowds. Each video game company occupies its distinct area. The cacophony from numerous television screens across the many exhibitions is deafening.

Our first stop is at the Square Enix area. This weekend, Square Enix has unveiled Shinra Technologies, a new cloud gaming platform named after the fictitious Shinra Electric Power Company from Final Fantasy VII. Director Hajime Tabata presents the eagerly anticipated new trailer for Final Fantasy XV. They offer playable demos for several other games including Bravely Second, Dragon Quest VIII: Journey of the Cursed King, Final Fantasy Explorers, and Final Fantasy XIV: A Realm Reborn for the PlayStation 4. Additionally, Square Enix boasts a merchandise section selling music from the Final Fantasy series, but the queue is incredibly long.

Microsoft has Mackenzie Crook persuading attendees to embrace the Xbox One, and his surprisingly fluent Japanese impresses the crowd. Dell Inc.’s Alienware showcases their new Steam gaming console, the Alpha, for the first time, offering hands-on trials, but the queues are, once again, too lengthy for our taste. The convention also hosts leading gaming companies like Capcom, Sega, Nintendo, and Konami. However, Japanese company Bandai Namco has taken a unique approach. Rather than showcasing trailers for their new games, they’ve opted for a cosplay showcase.

Cosplay is a Japanese performing art, akin to fancy dress, where individuals dress up as characters from their beloved manga, anime, and video games. For some, it’s a display of adoration for a favourite character, while others fully embody the character while in costume. This event is teeming with participants dressed predominantly as video game characters, to the extent that the Tokyo Game Show even boasts a dedicated cosplay area.

The show spans nine massive halls, featuring some exhilarating showcases this year. Among them is the newly announced VR prototype from Oculus Rift, the Crescent Bay, available for testing if one can withstand the hours-long queues. Thousands of playable demos for new games await, though enjoying them requires enduring the extensive lines. A live Winning Eleven 2015 football tournament is showcased on a colossal screen—a competition I would have eagerly joined if only I hadn’t arrived too late.

Among the crowds, there are numerous enthusiasts here—so passionate about manga, anime, and video games that the Japanese language has coined a term for them: ‘otaku,’ akin to the English ‘nerd.’ Some exhibits showcase women in cosplay, like modelling headphones, attracting these otaku who eagerly flock to capture photographs. It’s a surreal experience.

One of my favourite sections at the Tokyo Game Show is the Sony-sponsored Indie Game Area. Here, we get the opportunity to try out demos of upcoming games from lesser-known developers, and the queues here are notably shorter than in the main areas. There are around thirty different games featured here, conveniently positioned next to Square Enix. This year, Sony has generously covered all the exhibit costs for independent developers, providing them with an outstanding platform to showcase their new games to an audience of passionate video game enthusiasts.

Amidst the hands-on gaming zones and video game trailers, developers take to various stages, delivering live speeches and engaging in Q&A sessions. One of the most anticipated talks this weekend is from Konami, led by the legendary game designer Hideo Kojima. He’s here to unveil Metal Gear Solid: The Phantom Pain. Regrettably for me, but understandably, the speech is delivered in Japanese. Following the presentation, a twenty-minute gameplay footage video graces a massive screen, sparking sheer delight among the crowd of thousands.

Tokyo Game Show is incredibly overwhelming. Beyond the array of video games showcased, there are software companies unveiling new products, a section dedicated to mobile game developers, mobile phone companies, a sprawling food court, and an expansive merchandise hall. Renowned video game producers sign autographs while others distribute free magazines and leaflets advertising their games. I’m handed a glossy Japanese magazine adorned with captivating Square Enix game advertisements, each showcasing incredible artwork—a delightful keepsake.

As for the major games, the action-packed Bloodborne, from the creators of Dark Souls, boasts the most available playable demos, yet it also commands the longest queues, set for release in February 2015. Final Fantasy XV is restricted to trailers, with Square Enix confirming the release of its first playable demo in March 2015. On the other hand, World of Warships presents the most lacklustre display—an artillery turret where two women pose throughout the entire day.

The show remains open until 5 p.m., and Dagmar and I stay until the very end. As the crowds gradually disperse, two sumo wrestlers take advantage of the extra space and engage in a match, which delights me. Post-show, we indulge in some tempura before boarding a crowded rush hour train bound for Tokyo Station. As the train zooms past Tokyo Bay, we witness a beautiful sunset from within a carriage filled with Japanese otaku.

Internet Cafes, Bullet Trains, Irish Bars

Posted on 09/08/2014 by Luke

Grilled fish of the day is salmon for the third day in a row. After breakfast, I return to my room and return my room to a state that looks exactly as it did before I arrived, a hotel habit of mine. After that, I check out and head to Popeye Media Cafe to write things up.

The Internet cafe doesn’t only provide Internet access. The following items are offered at no cost (¥0): bath towel, body soap, shampoo, conditioner, hair dryer, hair iron, toothbrush, skin toner, shaving equipment (razor and shaving foam), drinks from three vending machines (offering ‘over 50 kinds of drinks!’), mobile phone charging, two plugs per person (‘you can plug in a device!’), wireless Internet, showers, and a sunbed. All of these amenities are complimentary.

They also have a ¥360 hot food vending machine, but that seems to be the only thing you need to pay for, other than time. The cafe also offers a library of comic books, better known as manga. The amount of manga on offer is insane, with bookshelves spread endlessly in every direction. Where there isn’t a private booth with a computer, there is a bookshelf. The cafe boasts an impressive 179 computers.

“I paid ¥980 for five hours, the day rate. I’ve actually been here twice before. Those times, I foolishly came during the evening and paid ¥805 for two hours and ¥1330 for three hours.

Today, I am assigned booth twenty-two. My computer runs Windows XP, and Google Chrome has already been downloaded. Next to my monitor is a menu for Domino’s Pizza. If I want, I can select a pizza from the menu, and the front desk will order it for me, handle the payment upon its arrival, and deliver it to my desk. The pizza will be added to my ‘check’ and paid for at the end.

I lounge in my reclining chair and write for five hours, all the while sipping on my free drinks. Today, I’m heading to Nagoya and can’t check into my hotel until 2 p.m. Might as well kill time by writing, that’s what I say.

I like it here; dingy, comfortable chair, feels good. I can see how people can end up spending a whole night here. People actually do just that. Because of the free amenities on offer and the availability of private booths to rent for a special ‘all night’ rate, people actually sleep here. It works out cheaper than a hotel, and you can read all the comic books you desire.

When I’m done, I settle my bill and leave. Outside, the sun is far too bright, especially after sitting in the dark for five hours. At 3 p.m., I take the bullet train to Nagoya. It costs ¥6760 for a 52-minute journey. It’s twice as expensive as the local trains, but they take three times as long, and I can’t deal with that. I reserve a window seat to make use of the ‘free’ plug socket. I realise that this might well be my last ride on the bullet train for a while. It’s quite saddening, actually; the bullet train really is a treat.

I arrive in Nagoya at 4:02 p.m., precisely as stated on my ticket—efficient as always.

The station exits out into the heart of the city, and a beautiful city it is. Thunder sounds in the distance, threatening rain, with a few flashes of lightning in the sky, but I only have to walk for five minutes. It starts to rain ever so slightly just as I arrive at my hotel. The lift doors open as I approach, “Welcome in,” they say in a robotic female voice.

In my room, I find that I am given loads of free stuff: a comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, slippers to keep, a shower cap, razor, bottled water, cotton buds, tea, coffee, and my own individual wireless network. It feels like I am back at the Internet cafe. The complimentary toothbrush says, “Thank you for using me. Please relax slowly.”

Outside, Nagoya feels right, especially after Osaka and its indecipherable road layouts. Sometimes a place grabs you, giving an instant good feeling; Nagoya has just that. Some might think Nagoya is like everywhere else—tall buildings, concrete, and neon. They would be right. But something about the place, about my initial impression, draws me into the neon of the night.

I walk around for a good few hours. One of the things I enjoy about visiting a new place is thoroughly exploring the backstreets and restaurants—reconnoitering. I notice small rectangular holes cut into a wall, just the right size for a hand. On the other side of the hole is an anonymous person: a hand wrapped in a white glove, a small tray for exchanging objects or money. Worthless pachinko parlour prizes are discreetly swapped here for cash, with no one seeing anyone else’s face.

It’s 8 p.m. but feels like eleven. I step into an ‘Irish’ bar where American punk is playing, and ‘J Sports 2’ is showing a Japanese baseball game. Quite the Irish experience, indeed. I order half a Guinness and a Glenlivet 12 on the rocks; they each cost ¥600. The Guinness tastes poor at best, far from the standard I am used to from the pubs back home.

I am asked to pay up front, which is unusual here.

The music changes to the Libertines. I can’t complain. I consider the instructions on my receipt, ‘enjoy and enjoy and get dead drunk.’ After finishing my drinks, I stand up to leave. As I do, one of the barmen stops me. “It’s our eight-year anniversary. Please choose a colour,” he says.
“Okay …” I ponder the question for a moment. “Green,” I reply. The barman reaches into a box under the desk and pulls out a bright green t-shirt.
“This is free for you,” he tells me as he hands me the t-shirt. Amazing, even more free stuff. I thank him and leave.

Nagoya, the capital of Aichi Prefecture, is distinctly a business-centric hub. Everywhere I look, there are men in white shirts, black trousers, and black shoes—salarymen abound. The horizon is engulfed by a mix of black, white, and neon. Notably, Nagoya’s GDP accounts for 1% of the global economy. Toyota, too, began its journey here, in a town called Toyota, within a city, also named Toyota. It might seem like a kind gesture that the car manufacturer adopted the town’s name, but in reality, the city was initially called Koromo, only changing its name to Toyota in 1959. The town followed suit, renaming itself Toyota. Capitalism in Japan—a fascinating phenomenon.

With the Domino’s Pizza menu from earlier today lingering in my mind, I opt for another unconventional yet healthy choice for a traditional Japanese meal: Italian food. The menu is entirely in Japanese, but the waiter promptly prints off a fresh, crisp, English menu for me. I decide on a tuna pizza, which arrives with a lovely bowl of minestrone soup.

As far as pizza goes, this is probably one of the greasiest I’ve ever had. But it’s good. Very good. I pay what seems like a lot and sneak a couple of the ‘free’ complimentary pieces of nutty caramel flapjack—very Italian. The bill comes to ¥2667, and I receive a delightful ¥333 in change.

Back at the hotel I fall asleep watching ‘Back to the Future’.

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